Learn about hyaluronic acid derivatives, their benefits and usage.
Sodium hyaluronate is one of the most familiar, and recognized active ingredients used in the history of skincare. Until the late 1970s, it was described as a “goo” molecule!
According to Mintel, 46% of total UK launches were formulated with this active, and 27% of consumers sought after it in 2023.
There are many modifications and derivatives available for use in cosmetic products because it is being continuously reinvented. Today I would like to mention a few that might inspire you, and hopefully provide a useful insight.
Marrying sodium hyaluronate with vitamins
Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate (Vscorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate) is a very stable mix of sodium hyaluronate and vitamin C. The great benefit of this marriage is the fact that Vitamin C is stabilized within the structure, becomes light and heat resistant and its activity is maintained. The ingredient offers typical for both actives benefits of anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, antioxidant, and skin brightening.
Sodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate (HyRetin) is the ester of very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and retinoic acid. By combining effects of the two anti-aging ingredients, this derivative can penetrate deeper, and doesn´t irritate the skin.
Increasing affinity to skin structures
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate (Hymagic™-AcHA) is synthesized from the NMF sodium hyaluronate by acetylation reaction. The hydroxyl group of HA is partially replaced with acetyl group which offers both lipophilic, and hydrophilic properties. This helps to promote high affinity, and adsorption properties for skin.
C12-13 Alkyl Glyceryl Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate (Hyalorepair®) is modified hyaluronic acid with increased affinity to the skin lipids. Acts as a skin barrier recovery agent that provides the skin with high moisture retention, and skin lubrication.
Increasing affinity to the hair
Cationic in nature Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate (iRonate Hair Plus, Hyaloveil-P® ) is dedicated to hair care due to it’s high hair surface substantivity. Adheres by an ionic bond and even after washing, the residue of hyaluronic acid is 17 times higher.
Haircare grade hyaluronic acid (Vita Hya-hair Repair) is designed to protect the hair from damage. It contains both Cationic Hight MW Sodium Hyaluronate, and Oligo Sodium Hyaluronate. Repairs, nourishes, and moisturizes the hair, allowing a better combing and giving it a youthful appearance.
Creating a delivery system
Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid (Hylasome™ EG10 ) is a hydrogel forming crosslinked hyaluronic acid that works as a delivery system, and enables gradual release of active ingredients into the skin. Gel domains are able to hold tightly bound water and water soluble actives, and deliver it over time.
Forming exfoliating microbeads
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (Hyacross™ Hyaluronic Acid Microbeads TG300) is a swelled but water insoluble sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, obtained by applying the patented cross-linking technology. It can turn into crystal and highly elastic HA microbeads after swelling, which is able to replace the traditional plastic microbeads. It can be used in an exfoliating scrub to smooth skin, and promote skin blood circulation, especially suitable for sensitive skin.
Marrying sodium hyaluronate with metal ions
Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate (Hybloom™ Zinc Hyaluronate (HA-Zn) is a combination of HA and zinc with both efficacies, which is developed by a patented technology. It not only has the characteristics of moisturizing, repairing, and nourishing of HA, but also has the functions of anti-oxidation and soothing of Zinc.
Other combinations & grades
There is also a variety of grades available that combine hyaluronic acid together with peptides, collagen, vitamins, extracts, ferments, squalane, and fatty acids.
Happy formulating!
Let's create beauty together.
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